Heavenly Down to Earth
It is easy to believe that fairytale king Ludwig the Second is said to have spent his happiest years here. The landscape of the Ammergau Alps is at times as imposing as a Wagner opera and then again as delicately playful as a piano sonata by Debussy. By the way, both were contemporaries of the misunderstood king, whom the Bavarians still affectionately call their 'Kini'. The nature of the Eastern Allgäu Alps will bring grounding to whoever is immersing themselves in it. With every step your backpack is not getting heavier, but a little lighter: trouble, stress, everyday worries – bit by bit they are falling away, only to finally disappear altogether. We are passing a small mountain stream flowing through the shady woods. In the distance a few cowbells can be heard. The air is wonderfully aromatic, a few colourful butterflies dance across the path: unwinding in perfection.
ROYAL VIEWS GUARANTEED
"One vacation is not enough to experience everything here", Erhard Thurm, the hotel owner, says when we set out. Looking at the hiking map, what he means becomes clear. Whoever wants to explore the dreamland of the fairy-tale king will need time. The hike to the Rohrkopfhütte is about an hour long, and if you want to go even higher up to Tegelberg – Schwangau's local mountain – it takes about three hours. Or perhaps you would like to climb the 2047 meter high Säuling? It is considered the most majestic peak of the Ammergau Alps. But the ascent is not for the faint-hearted. You will need some of the genetics of a mountain goat... However, there is an easier way too – the so-called 'Guardian Angel Path' (Schutzengelweg). Here you frequently come along places that invite you to take a rest. For example, a small rock formation reminiscent of granite mining in the Eastern Allgäu at the turn of the century. The wooden benches along the path are arranged in such a way that one can enjoy truly royal views. The castles Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein majestically greet you from afar, behind them the Forggensee and around it plenty of untouched nature. Strictly protected plants such as the Turk's Cap Lily or the Heath Spotted Orchid are still growing here.
INSIDER TIPS FROM LOCALS
You don't have to be a full-on mountaineer to have a good time here. The point is not to gain as much altitude as possible, but to savour it. "One of our insider tips is the hike through the gorges of the Ammergau Alps Nature Reserve, which even the locals hardly know", says hotelier Erhard Thurm. His wife Giselle adds: "In addition, there are plenty of cultural attractions here: Everyone should have visited the Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles at least once in their life. And then there is the Museum of the Bavarian Kings in Schwangau". The former Grandhotel Alpenrose, which after a long slumber was turned into a museum, takes you on a journey through the time of the Wittelsbach dynasty. History is coming alive, telling not only about the fairy-tale king, but also about the bustling architectural projects of the Bavarian rulers, the industrialisation of Bavaria and the end of the monarchy. "And then there are our beautiful lakes", Giselle says with a pensive smile, adding another item to the list of leisure activities.
RECHARGE AND UNWIND
Once you get to Rohrkopfhütte mountain lodge, it's time to relax. A beer and a hearty snack while enjoying an incredibly beautiful scenery that awakens the urge to explore. A swim in the Forggensee? A delightful bike tour through the Schwangau countryside? Riding a mountain bike to a hunting lodge? Or Nordic walking? Erhard Thurm chuckles: "We told you – one stay here is not enough!" Alright. Then let's come back for snowshoe hiking in winter!